Type 4 Engine Strip and rebuild
Our engine developed a knock on a recent trip and we had to cut it short. It sounds like a bearing so first step was to drop the oil and look for metal debris.
Here's the initial results from the oil drop
Not good! Plenty of metal in there so it looks like this may be an ongoing saga!
Here's the initial results from the oil drop
Not good! Plenty of metal in there so it looks like this may be an ongoing saga!
Re: Type 4 Engine Strip
Been removing more stuff today, the carbs, the dizzy, RH Heat Exchanger, T Stat etc etc. Just the LH HX and the top tins and i can remove the fan shroud! I am currently being thwarted by the two most awkward tinware screws....the LH HX swan neck support to rear upper LH tin and one in the top holding the LH upper cover to the case! Grrrr! They're currently soaked in penetrating oil. I wanted to remove as much as possible in situ (it's like a low level engine stand!) to make the Longblock as light as possible for lugging around and onto the bench!
Re: Type 4 Engine Strip
And further, a snapped exhaust manifold stud (LH HX) and two studs unscrewed out. The fan housing is now off and i can check the smoothness of the stat flaps before reassembly.
Nice and shiny block. You can see she's not put the miles in.
The fan shroud was removed complete with alternator.
All air seals were intact, most impressive.
Some minor debris collection on the oil cooler matrix, this will be thoroughly cleaned before reassembly.
I couldn't find my allen key set or i could have had the engine out. There's just that (2.5MM I think) needed to undo the accelerator cable and the engine can be removed!
Nice and shiny block. You can see she's not put the miles in.
The fan shroud was removed complete with alternator.
All air seals were intact, most impressive.
Some minor debris collection on the oil cooler matrix, this will be thoroughly cleaned before reassembly.
I couldn't find my allen key set or i could have had the engine out. There's just that (2.5MM I think) needed to undo the accelerator cable and the engine can be removed!
Re: Type 4 Engine Strip
And further....the engine is now out. Hmmm, would be nice in the beetle
Bit of debris from the old engine bay seal in here. This would cause hot spots on the cylinders so always worth checking for if you find seal debris (sticky gooey foam) on your fan blades.
And the heads and barrels off.
The inner surfaces of the barrels all show the original honing marks, most impressive! All valves and seats are in order, no cracks visible yet. Rocker and shafts and rods all ok, no metal lost from the top end....
Onwards to the bottom end!
Bit of debris from the old engine bay seal in here. This would cause hot spots on the cylinders so always worth checking for if you find seal debris (sticky gooey foam) on your fan blades.
And the heads and barrels off.
The inner surfaces of the barrels all show the original honing marks, most impressive! All valves and seats are in order, no cracks visible yet. Rocker and shafts and rods all ok, no metal lost from the top end....
Onwards to the bottom end!
Re: Type 4 Engine Strip
good luck!!!!!!
Re: Type 4 Engine Strip
Thanks lmpd! I'll need it!
Now two pistons off, and all bearing surfaces aok as are rings (no chips...not checked ring to piston clearances yet, these should be good with this mileage!)....this DVD is sooo good! Don't think i mentioned this yet but the Bug Me DVD, Vol 8 - Type 4 engine stripdown and rebuild is a godsend, as is the John Muir (....Compleat (sic) idiot) book too.
I'm keeping notes and bagging parts into small and medium ziplock bags which are labelled with their contents....the big pile of odd shaped tinware pieces is however a little scary!
Useful links....Bug Me DVD UK and European Distributor http://vw-diy.com/
Now two pistons off, and all bearing surfaces aok as are rings (no chips...not checked ring to piston clearances yet, these should be good with this mileage!)....this DVD is sooo good! Don't think i mentioned this yet but the Bug Me DVD, Vol 8 - Type 4 engine stripdown and rebuild is a godsend, as is the John Muir (....Compleat (sic) idiot) book too.
I'm keeping notes and bagging parts into small and medium ziplock bags which are labelled with their contents....the big pile of odd shaped tinware pieces is however a little scary!
Useful links....Bug Me DVD UK and European Distributor http://vw-diy.com/
Re: Type 4 Engine Strip
Ok, pistons off after i borrowed a nice brass drift. But, my 14mm sockets won't go over the 14mm con rod bolts as the walls of the socket are too thick! grrrr!
Thinking of getting one of these to try.
http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-2 ... -drive.asp
Thinking of getting one of these to try.
http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-2 ... -drive.asp
Re: Type 4 Engine Strip
well £6.25 ain't gonna break the bank, is it john??????
Re: Type 4 Engine Strip
Well i did just buy another socket from Halfords....which has a 2.07mm wall thickness at the thinnest part compared to my Stanley one which had a 2.5mm wall. The Halfords one doesn't fit either! If i keep this up i'll have a vast collection of 14mm sockets....so no it won't break the bank...but another 100 speculative purchases might!
Wanna buy a 14mm socket? Hardly used, 1/2" drive...one careful owner!
Maybe i could take it back to Halfrauds for a refund!
Wanna buy a 14mm socket? Hardly used, 1/2" drive...one careful owner!
Maybe i could take it back to Halfrauds for a refund!
Re: Type 4 Engine Strip
So a socket set from poundstretcher works! Nice thin wall and single hex too.
SO rods are now off and a relief that the rod bearings and journals are spotless. So, onwards into the case next to check the main bearings. Spent an hour or so cleaning up one of the heads a little.
I really must repeat that if you do find ANY foam engine bay seal in your fan, then when you get chance, whip your engine out and check all the barrel fins and head fins for foam debris. There was quite a bit blocking up through air gaps in the head and it stops the cooling air reaching those areas causing hot spots.
Handy tip: Use bits of old garden hose on the lower studs to let your pistons have a soft resting area. This helps those fragile rings stay unchipped as you remove the gudgeon (wrist - US) pins.
The specks on the journals are from me touching it, they are all mirror smooth
Head fins cleaning gunk out
Being a bit anal but that mold flashing restrict cooling air flow too...hmmm!
SO rods are now off and a relief that the rod bearings and journals are spotless. So, onwards into the case next to check the main bearings. Spent an hour or so cleaning up one of the heads a little.
I really must repeat that if you do find ANY foam engine bay seal in your fan, then when you get chance, whip your engine out and check all the barrel fins and head fins for foam debris. There was quite a bit blocking up through air gaps in the head and it stops the cooling air reaching those areas causing hot spots.
Handy tip: Use bits of old garden hose on the lower studs to let your pistons have a soft resting area. This helps those fragile rings stay unchipped as you remove the gudgeon (wrist - US) pins.
The specks on the journals are from me touching it, they are all mirror smooth
Head fins cleaning gunk out
Being a bit anal but that mold flashing restrict cooling air flow too...hmmm!